Puppy behaviour, training & care Gold Coast Queensland- Puppy training, toileting, obedience, sleeping at night and more!

Tel Gold Coast (07) 5573 1015 Part of the Hartnell-Baker Consultancy Group
Email info@dog-behaviour-advice.com

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dog owners and lovers across Australia.

You have reached the 'Puppy Behaviour, Training Health and Care' page

Puppy Care - General Information and Advice
Behaviour / Early Training

Please read through the whole piece. However these headings will take you
to various related sections.

Are you sure you really want a puppy?
Getting a puppy as a friend for your second dog/ We have young children!
Still want a puppy - breeds, choosing / Bringing Puppy Home / Introducing him to your other dogs
Sleeping at Night Play / Puppy commands / Car / Travel Toilet Training
Sounds and Noises / Introducing the lead / No go areas of the house / Chewing

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behaviour questions.
You complete a form online and we use these answers to offer an in depth analysis and plan of action!
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Puppy Care - General Information and Advice Behaviour / Early Training

Please note that these comments and
views are held by Dog Behaviour Advice team members.
As always, follow your own judgment, use your own experiences and expectations of a happy life with your pup/ dogs' and use our ideas as you wish.
Our approach to dog training and behaviour is to help owners live happily with their dogs, based on their own needs and wishes. Some owners enjoy their dogs bounding up to them when they return from work, don't mind that their dogs bark at strangers as they want to feel secure etc.
We are all different.

However we aim to help owners understand how dogs think- and how to use this knowledge to live with their dogs in a way that works for them both. Not just for the owners. The problems arise when dog and owner have differing needs and expectations. Most dogs arent happy bcing in charge and yet that is the role they are given. We teach owners to be aare of how they how are inadvertantly creating this herarchy, how address and change it- in positive, kind ways- based on dog behaviour rather than people behaviour:-)

Where we make recommendations please note that these are general and may not apply to your own
particular situation or needs.

Have you really thought about what you're letting yourself in for?

Deciding to buy (or rescue) and choosing a puppy can be very exciting, however it is vital that you have really thought
about what and why you are doing so.
Puppies look so adorable when they belong to someone else- its easy to forget or underestimate how much they will change your life, and how much damage they can do if you don't do your homework first. People don't realise how expensive puppies can be - purchase price, vaccinations, food, toys, chews, crates, pet sitters when you go away.. the list goes on (and dont forget possible replacement carpets, chair legs etc)
There are few things more distressing to us than the yoyo effect - people get dogs (or puppies) without a great deal of thought, often ruin the dog through lack of understanding (and patience) and then discard or ignore it.
The good news is that if you are reading this then that is unlikely to happen to you and your dog. Thank you for taking the time to consider both the needs of you, your family, and your new puppy.

Another dog will help my dog calm down- he just needs a friend.

A word of warning- if you have a dog who you consider to be badly behaved or overly boisterous, (ie if you feel unable to control your dog) and think that getting another dog will solve the problem - they probably just need a companion/ playmate - please think again. Solve the problems you are having with your existing dog before you consider having another.
If you are out a lot then of course your dog will prefer to have a companion- however please do ask us about this topic if you arent sure.
(If you're out a lot - why would you get a dog in the first place?)

We have young children and
want a puppy

Have young children? We advise people with young children to think carefully about bringing a puppy into the family. If your house is chaotic with them - imagine also dealing with excited children and an energetic puppy, happily chewing your carpet and weeing on your sofa while you try to explain to the children its not a good idea to pull puppy along by his tail, and that those cute little teeth that are chewing their hands will soon turn into teeth that hurt!
Dogs in the home should in our opinion be quiet, calm and well behaved. They should spend most of the day within the house (if this is where they spend their time) with you hardly noticing they are there (dont expect this if you dont also give them plenty of play and exercise time) . Children do not understand this - and want to play. Puppies will of course oblige! - they love to play. You then lose the chance of having peace. You will be constantly fighting for harmony- it can become a mad house!
We recommend that puppies are introduced when you know what you are doing - ie dont have your first dog when the kids are under five - at least wait until the children are of school age.

Still want a puppy?

OK so we haven't put you off (great!) and you want to go ahead and find a puppy. Firstly consider breed. Visit the Breeders page for breed info and advice. Also use this page for information about where to find a puppy litter, what to ask and look for.

Bringing puppy home
- first few days, setting a good routine and structure for positive behaviour.

It's a good idea if possible to bring the puppy home when you are likely to have time to spend with him, and things are not likely to be hectic or busy. Don't get a puppy at Christmas or at the beginning of the school summer holidays. If you have children, the best time is actually when they arent around too much and the routine is fairly stable. You, as owner and pack leader, need to establish your role and this is difficult when there a lots of distracting and exciting things going on.
Please don't get a puppy if you are going to be out of the house for more than three hours at any one time during the day without carefully choosing a breed that will be ok with this. If youre going to be out all day though, why get a dog?

Its just not fair to leave your puppy alone at first, and we recommend leaving him for no more than half an hour/ 45 minutes for the first two weeks (if you have to) , and then build it up to longer periods. Ideally you want to get him used to you leaving for a few sceonds, then coming back (before the crying) so that he gets the idea that when you leave youre coming back. If you stay with him the whole time and then suddenly leave him he's going to develop separation anxiety pretty quickly. Id also recommend that he sticks to a small part of the house to start off with - he needs familiarity and consisitency so dont ovewhelm him with too many new things- even if eventually you dont mind him having the run of the house. Its also far easier on the toilet training.

My new Border Collie is outside for a lot of the day- although Im out there with him alot also- sometimes Im just sitting out there reading a book and ignoring him and sometimes Im playing with him. I leave him no more than half an hour at a time- and when I first walk outside I ignore him- as would the pack leader. Most new owners make the mistake of making a fuss of their puppy when they go out or when they arrive home- it teaches pup he is more important than you (in dog terms) and creates a hyper dog who jumps up and is annoying to visitors who dont particularly like dogs.
I put Sammy's blanket in a dry place- this is the same blanket I use when he is in the car. They like familiar smells.

Certain breeds are better than others if you are out at work. Dont get a Border Collie for example if you plan to be out for most of the day, and arent going to be working him or at least keep him mentally stimulated.
Ask us if you arent sure about this.
Read on for more info about the first few days with your puppy.

I have other dogs- how to I introduce them to the puppy?

Give you other dogs a good long walk first (without puppy obvioulsy!) Do not let your dog/s be at the door when you enter.
Have your friend/ partner put him in another room. Bring puppy in, let him sniff around etc and then bring the other dog in (if you have more than one then do this individually, with each dog coming in separately, one at a time) We introduce the most dominant dog first - as would be his right in the pack. Then let the dog in and do not stand over the puppy or pick him up. Let them meet each other with space an no pressure. Puppies know how to show complete submissiveness, and your dog needs to see that puppy knows his place. Puppy will cross the line as he becomes braver- but the dogs will naturally tell him off. Don't stop this. Its confusing to the pack. If he acts inappropriately (in doggie terms) then he deserves it. Trust your dogs. They know how dogs behave. Don't act as if this is some great moment - get on with your normal activities in the room eg make a cup of tea. Act naturally. Then call your older dog over for a pet and take him out of the room. Do this with your other dogs. Then bring the first dog in, and then second etc until you have all in there. Again do not fuss, do not get anxious, and act as if there is nothing out of the ordinary.
Let them get on with it and after a few minutes they'll have reorganized the pecking order. If puppy comes and hides next to your legs then let him. He'll probably try to hide though.
Problems arise only if you haven't got your pack in order - and they don't see you as leader.
If in doubt - ask us for advice.

Sleeping at Night

Your puppy needs a quiet place where he can sleep without disturbances. If you have children we recommend a crate - use it in the car and kitchen (or whatever areas of the house you choose) He'll use this as a safe escape! Put a warm hot water bottle wrapped in a clean towel when you settle him down at night. I sleep with my new pups for the first few nights/ week - to reassure the puppy who is all of a sudden away from Mum, and also to get the toilet training over and done with quickly. At the moment (July 07) I have a blow up bed on the floor! During the first night I took him out to his 'weeing' area every 3 hours (I would not comment if there were accidents), and praised when he wees. I introduce 'do it quickly' from day one. By the way, puppies who use creates toilet train far quicker. As a rule they don't like to dirty their bedding, and so learn to hold it quicker!
After 5 nights Sammy is now dry from 8.30pm to 6am (hes almost 8 weeks old)

I leave pups alone in the kitchen or whichever area is safe (they cant chew anything they shouldnt or get out) when I go into other rooms, so that pup gets used to being left alone without worrying. Only when they are older do they come into other rooms in the house- if I want them too.
Make sure your pup is always somewhere he can be alone and safe, or under supervision- as you would a baby!
Don't leave a puppy in your living room and come back an hour later not expecting a mess!)
As the weather is better here than in the UK I leave Sammy outside rather than in the kitchen during the day.
People don't realize that if their dogs can follow them everywhere in the house when they are at home, then it gets worrying for them when they leave and cant follow them any longer. By getting the pecking order correct (so that you are pack leader) and also letting them have alot of short separations (please ignore your pup for a few minutes every time you re-enter) then he will soon be able to be left at night.
If he cant hold his wee that long- and this depends on age- then make sure he has plenty of newspaper on the floor- if hes got to go hes got to go! He doesnt have a watch - he doesnt know when you are coming back to let him out.

Establish a night time routine. Get a drink, let him out to relieve himself, give him a pet, lights off and leave for example.
Do not get into a routine of teaching him to cry and howl for your attention. If he cries ignore him.Usually they will stop quickly if there is no pay off. Dogs dont do anything without a pay off. Usually your attention.
Remember at first however that the dog is scared and lonely. To expect a new puppy to sleep on his / her own the first night without being scared is not something we recommend. And please dont leave him outside - his body temp doesnt self-regulate for the first few months so when hes away from the warmth of other pups and Mom he'll find it an unpleasant experience if at all cold. Its also very lonely- youll set yourself up for crying and separation anxiety. Its easier, in our experience, to be near to the puppy for at least the first few nights even though less (rather than lots of) attention is best. Set it up in the day time so that he gets used to being on his own and falling asleep, as this reduces the risk of a howling/ barking routine at night - even if this does then stop eventually.
If he does keep crying then creep downstairs so he doesnt hear you, make a loud noise (a quick bang of saucepans or loud clap) and then at the same time as the puppy stops you walk in. (you might want to warn the neighbors!) DO NOT not then fuss him or talk to him. Go and get a drink or something. He must not think that his crying has brought you in. The environment has told him off and when he was quiet you came in.He must learn that you never come to him when he makes a noise.Its also far easier for 'the environment' to tell him off.
Please also ensure that he does not think that you, the pack leader, are making this noise.

For example, if he were to start jumping up onto the table, get someone to make a loud band when he does it. He will stop after no more than 3 bangs. You just have to catch him in the act!
NUMBER ONE RULE for training dogs- they learn through what you tell them about the action happening at that time. Puppy chews carpet, hears you come in, you shout - he has no clue you are shouting about the carpet. It was five minutes ago! Its just confuses him - he's happy to see you and you shout? What's that all about? If you have a chewer, you must catch him in the act- set up a vide system, or mirrors, or peep through the window. He starts to chew- BANG! Don't let him see you. He'll do it about three times and then give up.
Jumping up? Ignore, no eye contact, turn away. Only give him the attention when he is behaving as you want eg in a istting position. Take away the reward which are your hands and attention when exhibiting behaviour you dont want. .If its a really big problem then get someone to bang saucepans together at exactly that time. The person being jumped at then pets the dog who is now down at the ground. He actually thinks that if he jumps up then the noise happens, and it is not connected to the person he's jumping up at. Use things that do not hurt the dog and that he thinks are not connected to you - it's the environment telling him off. If you dont have help then change the focus - teach him what he can chew- not your hands! Pups want to chew- its how they play and they are teething. Get him a rawhide bone for example and replace your hand with this. At the same time say 'chew' good boy/ girl. Youre ignoring the chewing of hands and praising the chewing of something acceptable.
Most dogs prefer to be pushed off, or shouted at, than ignored- and this is why they continue to exhibit undesirable behaviour If in doubt, and you dont have anything to hand then simply ignore. Or push away calmly and turn your back
However, remember that pups greet their mothers by licking the mouth - initially she used to brings him food in this way. Its a ritual. As pup see you as mother, isnt it logical that he will try to lick you - and youre higher up! The trick its to teach your pup a different way of saying hello. As pup approaches, show a treat, bring your hand down to the ground and then give him the treat and praise. We suggest that at the same time as doing this you say the same thing - eg 'say hello- good boy' (only praise and give the command when he's taking the treat and not fussing) Get him to associate greeting you with a treat and pet down near your feet. After a while he will greet you by sitting in front of you and waiting expectantly for the treat and your praise. As he becomes older he will get a treat every odd greeting, and eventually every once in a while. He will always get a pet for a 'proper and polite' greeting. (note- quick pet and then get on with what youre doing- we say 'no more- off you go')
However we do believe that is you have the relationship right, and you start the 'ignore for five minute rule' then this shouldnt be a problem anyway. He shouldnt really think that he has the right to come to you for a pet- he should be waiting for when pack leader decides he wants it.
Us the strategy that works for you though - in your situation.

He chases your ankles or bites? Stand still. Basically take away the reward (which is attention and play) Change the focus as mentioned earlier and teach him that chewing his rawhide bone or toy is great fun - and that chewing your hand or ankles doesnt get him anything. So have somthing he CAN chew close to hand. Like babies, they want everything in their mouths for the first few months and when teething. So make sure he has 1 or 2 things that he learns he is allowed to chew. (more than that and how will he differentiate between those and your shoes etc?!) Make life simple and straight forward.

Pups need things to chew!- but try to keep it simple- they dont understand that they can chew a dog toy but not your shoes. Dont leave pupster alone where he can do any damage. If he does- blame yourself, not him.

Doesnt work? Doesnt stop chewing your ankles etc? I take him firmly by the scruff of the neck and pull away. Expect a cry. Thats what Mum would do. Or get someone to make a loud noise as he does it- then when he isnt doing it (he'll stop immediately so be ready) you reward him with the same words eg stop fussing- good boy (he learns a new command- and will begin to associate 'no fussing - good boy' with praise if he stops, and a loud noise if he doesnt. Again, try not to let your pup see who is making the noise)
Or teach him a command such as 'sit' and instead of concentrating on stopping him fussing around your ankles, youre asking him to do something and giving him a reward for doing it. Distration!

Your puppy can quickly learn to associate actions with consequences (operant conditioning)
Why not try training your puppy using clickers?
See the Dog Training page for more details
(also see Dog Training pages for more info on operant conditioning)

So - back to bed times - don't get a puppy in the evening! Imagine- you take him from his Mum and then leave him alone in a strange room for hours? How awful for him - and how awful for you as he will cry all night - and set up a habit
So go and get him early morning, before feeding, (don't take the children unless you have to)and then let him get use to our kitchen. Don't bring him into the rest of the house. Introduce as few people as possible. Let him bond with you. Let him explore the kitchen, find a bed (someone hidden and dark is good eg under a table or in a corner or cardboard box on its side) Keep coming in and out of the kitchen all day. He'll sleep in his hew bed, get used to you going in and out, and find he gets fed without the usual pushing and shoving of sisters and brothers! Be quiet and calm when you are with him . Ignore him as you enter the room, get on with something, and after a few minutes go to him calmly and gently and give him a stroke or just sit next to him. talking quietly. Even at this stage you are teaching him that inside we are calm,and quiet and that calm behaviour is rewarded and anxious, unwanted behaviours are not. (if your pup whines and you say 'poor baby,its ok' etc and 'comfort him' in human terms you are TEACHING him to do this behaviour because you are rewarding him when he does it
By ignoring him on entry each time you are also teaching him that you are pack leader. It is up to you to give him affection, not for puppy to come to you and demand it. That's the way he's been taught by his Mum to date and will want you to take over that role.
If he's bright, and needs stimulating in the house (other than the usual daily walk and training session) eg border collie, german shepherd, then give him a toy or chew to play with when on his own. He's not a child- he doesn't need a great selection- and actually we recommend that adult dogs argent allowed to have toys unless you get them out to play (and work) See the dog behaviour pages for more info on that topic.

When he's outside you can start to teach him to play- with a toy, ball or tug toy. Its important that he plays by your rules and not the other way around. Its also important that you stop the game before he's had enough. If you are the source of fun and games - then when out later and you see a rabbit or some distraction (another dog) then you'll be able to simply produce a ball (or preferred toy) and he wont take his eyes off you. Rabbit? Other dog? Forget it. You'll also teach him then when he comes to you he gets to play! Why wouldn't he dash over to you when called to see what exciting game you will are going to play, or what tit bit you have in your pocket?

Teach your puppy to come to you when you call his name.
We prefer that you call him name and then give a command. Imagine if someone was to just keep calling your name without telling you what they wanted! Youd soon block it out and ignore it too.
For example, Sammy - here'

TIP - think about commands before you get your puppy and practice them. Know what you mean by your commands- or your puppy certainly won't.

For example we have people who ask their dogs to sit. They do so - wonderful- they get a tit bit, and the they get up. We ask their owners what they mean by 'sit' We usually get puzzled looks at this stage. Didn't their dogs just demonstrate?
What they have taught their dog is that as soon as they get the tit bit the sitting is over! We prefer that our dogs learn that 'sit' means put your bottom on the ground wherever you are (don't come to us first) and then stay like that until we give the release word. We use 'ok'

Even a pup as young as 8 weeks can start to learn basic commands

BEHAVIOUR TIPS- if you want a well behaved puppy, then make sure your pack is well defined (visit the Behaviour Pages for more info about the pecking order) Try to make sure the puppy is doing as you want because he wants to. So make life exciting when he behaves appropriately and ignore/ remove the reward when he doesn't. Ignore unwanted behaviour as much as possible, and praise the good. Discipline like another dog would. Other dogs dont smack their young, hit them with a rolled up newspaper or shout at them. All this will achieve is that you'll have a nervous puppy who isn't sure what is expected of him and loses confidence. He certainly wont bound over to you when called, and try hard to please.
Also don't over exhibit your love for your puppy. If he isn't showered with love and affection, toys, tit bits etc all day then he'll learn to work for them. You will be able to persuade him to do as you want far more quickly and effectively if play, your affection and tit bits etc are a treat and not the norm.
Remember that the pack leader decides when everything happens, when she gives affection and plays etc. So really make sure that you are ruling what happens and not your puppy! If you don't accept that from your children or other people, then don't accept it from your dog.

Puppy Commands
As a rule we would suggest the following commands for your puppy. Keep them to a minimum and pretty open to start off with.
Use his name first, to get his attention.
As always however, it's up to you! These are just the ones we use most often.
If we had to limit it to two then these would be 'name here' and 'name settle down'
.
ok - release word
name - sit (sit wherever you are until I say ok)
name - here (come next to me - we use this instead of 'come' as this will be a formal command that we teach a little later than means come and present in front of me with your nose in my crotch!)
name- this way (when out walking, this means 'your pack leader isn't going that way - we're going this way incase you hadn't noticed!')
We would use 'this way' when he's about to run off to another dog, or pick something yucky off the ground etc. Its a distraction- a change of direction and action.
name settle down' - this means find a place to lie down, and rest. It doesn't have to be immediate (ie where you are) but it does have to be within about 0 - 20 seconds.
Stop on walks for example, and ask them to settle down. He may have been overexcited in the house and you want to sit in peace, so use this command then..
'Name - off you go' or 'name -that'll do' You need to teach your puppy that you decide when you've had enough. So if you've been stroking him, then say this and he doesn't get any more petting. However cute is looks, and especially if he then starts to jump up or nudge your hand etc.He has to learn to go away and leave you alone. We use this after play. It tells him 'I'm stopping the game now'. You should be able to go from playing excitedly one minute, saying 'that'll do ' or 'off you go' and your puppy should switch off immediately as he knows that's it.
This one really helps to reinforce your pecking order.
'name - wait' - use this for the car and any other appropriate situations. This basically means stop exactly where you are and don't do anything!
'name - do it quickly' (or another command for wee/ mess)
'name - with me' (see introducing the lead)

Try to use the same voice tone each time - so if you excitedly call 'name - here!' then do this every time. Its not the command he understands, its the way you say it, and the context. We've experimented before - 'Ben- noodles!' etc and hey presto - same result.

Try not to put your dog into a situation where he can disobey you, or will discover that he can disobey you.. If he isn't gong to do it - and you cant control it -don't ask him to. For example if you know that when you tie him to the railing he wont sit while you go play with your child - don't ask him to. Just tie him up and leave him. If he barks for attention don't ask him to stop, he wont! Ignore him. take away any positive consequence of his actions.(remember shouting and a cross owner is more rewarding than nothing) Imagine if you go over to him - what has he learnt? I make a fuss and Mum comes! Yipee.Ill do that again.

Don't say something twice. If he hasn't done it the first time then change the scenario so that he does- however much later- and then praise. (but not as profusely as you would if he'd done it straight away)
For example, you see your puppy go to say hello to another dog- (we encourage this- don't intervene if you can help it, let them greet each other and carry on walking, seemingly uninterested. (you look nervous and you teach you dog to be nervous about other dogs approaching) Don't stop - you're pack leader - you don't wait for him! Don't call him at that point as he wont come. No way- I just met an exciting dog! Carry on walking, check when the initial excitement is over, and then call excitedly "Ben - this way' (if that's his name!!!) Keep going. He ignores you? Keep walking -quickly (we run!) as if there's something very interesting up ahead.

By far the best thing to do is to teach him to come to you every time in the house. When he's a puppy give him a treat every time. As a rule you give a treat every time until the behaviour is learned, then you start to give the treat every odd one and so on until when the behavour is known they keep doing it as they know eventually they will get the reward.
Dogs do everything for a pay off. take the pay off away completely and you wont get the action.

So in the house call his name in a quiet an excited voice, show him the treat and then as he comes praise him and give it to him. At first don't confuse matters by expecting him to sit for it etc. One step at a time! Initially you just want to know that when you call "name here' he comes bounding over. Try it when our walking, and not just when there is something exciting up ahead that you want to distract him from.

To teach a dog to sit simply show him the treat so he knows what you have, lift it up so his nose reaches for it and he will naturally sit. Then say 'name sit' AS HE SITS. Not before, not after. The more you do it the quicker he will learn to do it until you can say sit BEFORE he does it and then he sits. Infact as you develop a great relationship with your dog you often don't have to give a verbal command - they know from your body language and gestures what you want.
Make sure you release your dog before he gets up!! Do it quickly, or show him another treat so that he stays in that position for longer. Consider yourself having failed if he comes out of it before you release him. You need to teach him the correct way every time! Expect your puppy to stay in a 'sit' for a few seconds and the increase this.
Keep it simple keep it simple keep it simple!

Teaching a dog to lie down is easier if you do this under a chair, or hold a tasty treat in your hand and turn you hand face down on the floor so he has to get down to sniff it. Then say 'name, lie down' again AS HE DOES IT. Don't forget to release!

When you teach your puppy 'name off you go' or name that'll do' then just stop doing what you are doing and give him no response. For example, if he has been playing, then hold the toy away from him, and say 'name no more' Give no more attention - no eye contact, turn your body away. Ignore any last minute attempts to play. Then when he 'switches off' praise. Do this if he comes to you for a pet. (we don't pet them when they do this- we ignore - and then a few minutes later we call the puppy over and praise- everything is on our terms) Pet puppy and then after a few minutes (before he's had enough) say' name off you go' or 'name that'll do' and no more petting. However cute they get.If necessary get up and walk way.If they continue to be a pain put in another room for a few minutes.No anger, no shouting, just remove the reward / the pay off.

We highly recommend that when people come into the house they are asked to please ignore the puppy. If they cant then put him in another room. Its important that the puppy sees that they people have come to see you. The pup can have a pet only after the visitors have been in the room for five minutes, ignoring him.If during this time he's been a nuisance and trying to jump up etc then ignore, or remove. when he's settled down then the visitors can call him and stroke him. Its important that you teach puppy who is important in the room - and he comes last.Then he'll act appropriately and you will have a dog to be proud of. And one who is happy and content as he knows his place and doesn't have lots of additional responsibilities. You'll read about this in our dog behavior pages - and discover how important it is that your dog doesn't feel its his role to protect you rather than the other way around.

As a rule we play with our dogs for the same amount of time we expect them to action commands.
We find that while we use tit bits for puppies, and occasionally with our adult, dogs, that play is a better training tool and reward. Find what makes your dog tick and use this.
Another tip is to cut down on food when giving tit bits! Otherwise you'll end up with a fat dog! So make sure he gets the correct amount. We use cheese by the way - except with very young puppies. Little tiny pieces pre-cut before walks, or when training.

Take your puppy to puppy socialisation classes with a reputable trainer.
It is vital during the first 12 weeks that your puppy meets new dogs and people. As your puppy shouldn't go out and meet adult potentially non-inoculated dog this is a good way to do this. Puppy classes should be well organised and led by someone who understands dog behavour.
What's important at this stage is that you begin to understand how dogs think - not teaching your dog to sit, stay fetch etc.(in our opinion)

Car Travel
Cars are scary places for puppies, so get them used to car travel early. Get a dog guard or even better a crate and before you've even thought about taking them anywhere help them to see that the area they will travel in is a nice place! Pet them and give tit bits in there - play tug in their area! Let them be comfortable, and gradually close the door for a few minutes and then re-open. (if they fuss don't open until quiet - make a noise etc) If they fuss while you are driving ignore them. With older dogs we would make a noise and then praise when quiet. Initially don't let them travel on a full stomach.for obvious reasons. If you take them for a walk every tim you travel at first, then they will associate the car with this activity and enjoy it. Emma takes her dogs with her a lot of the time- unless hot- sometimes they walk and sometimes they don't. They soon learn that the crate is a nice place, and they will simply curl up and sleep. She's out for all day sessions sometimes and its easier to have them with her and take them out every two hours, than to leave them at home all day . Especially when they are puppies- they cant get up to much in the car crate! Its also good for toilet training as they don't like to be in mess.

At the moment - while Sammy is 8 weeks and has only been with us a week- Sammy is either in the back of the car,
in the outside area of our house or in the house when we are with him. So he's never in a position to get into bad habits.
Obviously make sure your pup doesnt get too hot- an open window isnt enough if its sunny and warm.
It doesnt take long to kill a dog in a hot car.

Tip - this is the ideal time to teach your dog to wait. Open the crate or car door and as they go to jump through quickly close it. Keep doing this- inching it open a bit at a time, and as they wait say 'name wait good boy' You should soon be able to say 'name wait' open the door and expect them to wait there until you give the release word.This is not only for obedience but also safety. You don't want to lose your young dog to a passing car.
We also expect our dogs to sit when they reach the car, and we wipe paws before saying 'ok in you go'
Get into a routine that ensures your puppy/ dog's safety and your car stays clean and dry!

Toilet Training your puppy

As hes weeing I am saying 'do it quickly, good boy'- he is in his 'toileting area'.
This is where I want him to do his business at home!

The main rule to remember is praise the good behaviour and ignore the unwanted. We recommend that you keep your puppy in one room to start off with, and cover it completely with newspaper. Try to be there to see your puppy wee or mess as often as possibly and then praise. Change paper regularly. Go out with your puppy and if he wees etc outside then get really excited and reward with a tit bit. As you see that you puppy is about to wee or mess (messing is easy as he will run around for his spot- its a distinct movement!) say 'name - do it quickly' or whatever you choose as your command. After a few days you'll see that he has certain spots he usually uses, so don't remove paper from these areas, but the idea is to reduce the number of pieces on the floor and move towards the door. At the same time praise madly when he goes outside. Get a dog flap so he can go out without you letting him out! If not expect to keep having accidents - but we are aiming for accidents on the newspaper. Keep the kitchen door open when possible so he can go in and out. The more you see and praise your puppy when he 'goes' in the right place the quicker he will learn and become house trained.
If you continue with the praise method you can then go on to teach him exactly where in the garden you want him to go! After learning how pleased you are when he goes outside, you can then give masses of praise when closer to the desired area - and be over the top- pieces of cheese pleased!- when he does it where you want it.
We have hear horrid stories of dog's noses being rubbed in poo etc. It doesn't work - it just teaches your dog to fear you, and try to hide his poo!. Some get so worried they eat it.They become nervous. and anxious.
We think this type of 'training' should be called abuse.
Be patient. Understand that he is only learning what you teach him - and if you don't want accidents on the living room carpet then cover it with paper or keep him out of there!
They wee less and less as the day go on and if you are regular with feeding then he will be pretty regular too - and you'll know when he is likely to need to do a number two! Be there to make sure he's well positioned and be ready to cheer!

As soon as Sammy got home I took him to his tileting area every 20 minutes- and especially after he had woken up,
after eating and after playing.

Get him used to every day sounds and noises

Introduce your puppy to various sounds etc and act as if they are nothing to be afraid of. The vacuum cleaner, cars, motorbikes etc. He will come to you to protect him , just carry on as if nothing is happening. Don't comfort - it teaches him there is something to be afraid of,. You are his protector and if he's near you then he knows he safe.

Introducing the lead

When first introducing the lead we recommend a long one (we don't like extender leads as these can fail to work at a vital moment eg when you need it to 'break' as your pup is about to go out into the road.)We prefer to do everything as explained above, so that when out walking a pup you can let him run off the lead for most of the time, in an open space of course. Walking along the side of the road on a lead isn't a great deal of fun and dogs need to run free and be able to follow scents etc. So our dogs tend to only go on the lead when walking to the car, and from the car to a safe place to be let off to run. When you first put the lead on don't do it when he's all excited. Let him play first, wear him out a little, and then call him to you with a treat. Slowly put on the lead, or attach to collar, and continue to pet etc. You just want him to have it on and not panic. Don't let it go and let him run around as this is scary. Get up and then walk - trying to let him not pull on the lead. ie follow his direction. If it does pull, you always stand still. Start to walk again as soon as the lead is slack and praise.. Under no circumstance should he learn that he pulls. and still gets to go anywhere. Praise when he's not pulling or biting on the lead, and stand still and ignore him when not.Walk around the garden and then stop, show him the treat, ask him to sit if you are at that stage and then undo the lead. We get our puppies them into a habit from day one of sitting to have the lead on, and sitting to have it removed. We also teach them to then wait until we use the release word ie they don't get to run off as soon as the lead comes off. As you remove the lead, simply bend down and hold them back without force. (we would continue to say 'sit' if sitting or 'wait' if you don't bother getting them to sit before released. Praise, then release and off they go!. We recommend practicing having a lead on little and often in the garden, and then going out on walks or in a quiet road. Don't introduce traffic sounds etc too early on as you don't want puppy to associate the lead with anything unpleasant. When on the lead let him sniff and explore. As he becomes used to it, then start to have times when on the lead when you say 'with me' or similar. This means you want the puppy to walk by your side. Hold the lead in your right hand, with the puppy to your left as often as possible. Shorten the lead using your left hand, which will be lower and closer to his collar.
Tip - slip your thumb through the lead loop and then close your fingers around. In this way, if he suddenly bolts (strange noise etc) you wont lose him as you can tighten your grip, but if he was to run under a bus you can release easily and not go with him. (a horrid thought we know)

Pic coming here soon

When he is in position (as shown) say 'name with me' and then continue to say it, praising as well, while he walks next to you without pulling. Try to keep up with him initially at his pace, but with him in the correct position. If he goes so fast that the lead is taut, then pause or stop until the lead becomes slack again. As he becomes familiar with this position and command, then you can start to dictate the pace.We recommend that you build up the length of time on the lead. Do remember when waking your dog however why you're doing it. Its not just for exercise, its for mental stimulation. he needs to sniff, socialise and run free! So dont tale him for a walk to get your paper - on lead- and then think that's enough. And don't expect him to walk with you for the whole walk - not much fun for pupster! We see owners in New York etc that send their dogs to gyms - they run on tread mills etc. OK for excercise but that's not what being out and walking is all about for a dog. We cringe when we see this.
When your puppy has learned what 'with me' means you can enjoy calling him with a simple 'name - with me' and he will come to walk by your left hand side. No lead required. Great when you see an approaching bike etc.Then simply praise and release!
We know our dogs will walk with us without leads, however even the most experienced dog nadlers will keep thier dogs on leads when out in potentially dangerous and unpredictable situations. Always expect the unexpected. Keep your dogs safe.

Segregation - use stair guards to enable you to have no go areas of the house. Puppy can see you, but learns that you decide where in the house he can go and when. Sometimes you may let him and and at other times you wont.This is useful when you need to do things without pup around your ankles, and at the same time you can see what hes doing. Try to be able to see what hes doing as often as you can so that you stop undesirable behaviour as it happens. This also helps to eliminate separation anxiety and defines the pecking order.

Chewing
What can we say - puppies chew! Expect it and prepare yourself for it. Dont leave puppy in a room with things he can get into or chew. Leave him safe chews, and praise him when he chews these. (we dont recommend bones - and even as adults bones are not very good for tummies and digestion) When chewing something you dont want him to chew then take it from him and replace it with his chew, praising him when he takes it and starts to chew on it.. He needs to learn that this is the only things he chews. So dont let him have old shoes and then expect he will know which can be chewed and which cant! Use stair guards, as discussed prevously, so that when you can keep an eye on him you at least know what there is in that room that he can get at. If in doubt, then use a crate.
PLEASE remember that you have to catch him in the act or you cannot discipline him for chewing.If its really bad, and he chews when you arent around, then this is a time when we would use saucepans- by using mirrors or by positioning ourselves so he cant see us, we watch him and as he starts to chew he hears a loud crash. He stops, the noise stops.It only takes about three goes at this before he stops chewing whatever he was chewing! However angry you may feel if you come home to find that you chair leg has been nicely chewed - blame yourself for leaving such a temptation there in the first place. If you have a real chewer then dont leave him anywhere he an chew something other than his chew.
(As I said before, I dont leave my pups unattended for at least six months- its with me, in a closed room or in your crate! )

TIP- if you think that by buying him lots of toys to play with while you are away, and lots to chew, that this will help then think again. If he has a wide range fo things to chew he will- but it will be more dificult for him to know which he cant. Keep it simple for him. He can chew his chew- and nothing else.

Final comments - The way we train our dogs is to get the dog to WANT to follow the command, you shouldnt have to force him against his will. He should be happy to do as you ask. In fact he should be so desperate to find out what it is you want that he should go through all his 'trick's when presented with something exciting.

Writen by
Emma Hartnell-Baker BEd Hons, MA
Copyright 2004-7

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Examples of issues covered
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